Introducing the Breitling 140th Anniversary Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Collection
Breitling Navitimer B19 Perpetual Calendar Time for Art
Breitling is celebrating its 140th anniversary and has just unveiled its first in-house perpetual calendar chronograph at Geneva Watch Days.
Breitling is well known for its aviation heritage and when you think of Breitling you most likely think of aviation watches such as the Navitimer and Cosmonaute, and of course the chronographs themselves – the modern two-button chronograph is credited to Willy Breitling, grandson of founder Leon Breitling; back in 1934 Willy patented a two-button chronograph with independent start/stop and zero return functions. But generally you wouldn’t think of Breitling as a manufacturer of grand complications, and that’s not an entirely accurate impression, because among the three grand complications Breitling makes a number of different rattrapante chronographs, as well as a perpetual calendar chronograph – in fact, Breitling even makes a minute repeater, although purists might describe it as a multi-function quartz analog-digital reviews replica watch. That watch is the Aerospace EVO, and at first glance I think any enthusiast would be 100% confident that it couldn’t be a minute repeater, but lo and behold, it may be a quartz high-tech timepiece, but it does have a minute repeater function worthy of the name.
However, while Breitling has made perpetual calendar chronographs before, those were based on supplied base movements and modules, and this time around Breitling has brought the complication in-house. The B19 movement is based on the 2009 Calibre 01 chronograph, which was followed by the 24-hour B02, rattrapante B03, and B04 GMT. Designed and assembled at Breitling’s chronograph center in La Chaux-de-Fonds.
The movement is available in three versions: the Navitimer B19 Chronograph 43 Perpetual Calendar 140th Anniversary; the Premier B19 Datora 42 140th Anniversary; and the Super Chronomat B19 44 Perpetual Calendar 140th Anniversary. The names vary slightly, but the functionality and basic layout of the three watches are the same; the 42, 43 and 44 refer to the case size. All cases are rose gold. replica Jacob & Co. epic x
NAVITIMER B19 CHRONOGRAPH 43 PERPETUAL As its name suggests, the Navitimer B19 Chronograph 43 Perpetual is a 43mm version of what is probably every non-pilot’s favourite pilot’s watch. The slide rule bezel is actually a perfect fit for the perpetual calendar complication, although you might not think so at first. While the bezel is based on the E6B flight computer circular slide rule (which pilots still have to learn how to use), it is a practical device in a way, but it also carries a strong sense of nostalgia – a little afterglow of the golden age of civil and military aviation after World War II.
It’s also a richly detailed feature that blends perfectly with the perpetual calendar. The layout follows the classic style, with the moon phase disc at 12:00, the date and 30-minute counter at 3:00, the month and leap year at 6:00, and the day of the week and running seconds at 9:00. best luxury watches
The red numerals are in the usual position on the inner and outer slide rule bezel scales, and there is also just a hint of red on one of the subdials - at 3 o'clock, representing the 31st of each month.
PREMIER B19 DATORA 42 140th ANNIVERSARY EDITION The Premier collection and its history may be less well known to enthusiasts who think of Breitling as a manufacturer of aviation instruments, but its history actually dates back to the launch of the first Premier watch in 1943, when it debuted as a dress chronograph; early advertisements for the Premier watch featured a charming picture of a handsome penguin wearing a top hat and bow tie, waving a cane, just to clarify that this was not a pilot's instrument per se. The new Premier B19 Datora 42 140th Anniversary is the most traditional in layout and feel of the three new 140th Anniversary models, as you’d expect given its history and place in the Breitling catalogue over the years.
The tachymeter scale has a utilitarian, functional feel to it, but given how many dress chronographs have featured it over the past half century or so, it doesn’t detract from the overall elegance. There are some notable differences between this Premier Datora version and the others, despite the same layout – one of which is that the first section of the chronograph minute counter is split into three sections by elongated markers, a feature of many vintage chronographs. The moon disc quite logically uses a traditional moon face to display the moon phases, and the hands are also traditional syringe-type hands. replica Grand Seiko Heritage Watches
A fun little fact is that no one seems to know why so many vintage chronographs have these elongated three-minute markers on their 30-minute counters – Revolution has a great summary of all the competing theories, one of which is the old urban legend, which has not been proven to my knowledge, that they were put there to time long distance calls… or maybe pay calls, or both, or neither. This watch measures 42mm, making it the smallest of the three.
SUPER CHRONOMAT B19 44 PERPETUAL CALENDAR 140TH ANNIVERSARY The Chronomat is one of three watches in the 140th Anniversary Collection and the latest to be released. The Chronomat was launched in 1983 with the first model, the Frecce Tricolori, designed for the Italian Jets team. Bezel indicators are etched deeply into the collective consciousness of the John Q Public Watch Client as a Breitling signature and instantly recognizable signal, but according to Breitling, their original purpose was purely practical – they acted as bumpers, rising above the crystal, but also displayed the seconds quickly and intuitively. Richard Mille RM 65-01 Split-Seconds McLaren W1
The Chronomat 44 Perpetual lives up to the Chronomat aesthetic. The wide bezel and bezel indicators are made of black ceramic, and the width of the bezel is the main reason for the 44mm case diameter. The crown and pushers are both screw-down. As far as red decoration is concerned, the 31 in the date subdial flies alone, and there is a tachymeter scale on the bezel, but it is happy to be a supporting role to the bezel and bezel indicators.
The moon phase disc is a modern representation of the moon, in line with the modernity of the design, the dial is openworked, and the subdials are made of black synthetic sapphire surrounded by rose gold, seemingly floating above the perpetual calendar.
Of the three models, I think this one feels the most festive – like Chronomats since their inception, this is a highly extrovert replica watches for sale, and a bold watch with a capital B. It’s not for timid wrists and retiring personalities.